New Zealand's South Island

New Zealand tips:

• Don’t forget sunscreen! Even on a cloudy day sunburns are common.

• Download a free currency converter app and a kilometers to miles converter app before your arrival to make things easier.

• Download offline maps of the area you’ll be visiting ahead of your arrival so even if you don’t have cell service driving directions will still work.

• Not a tip but a fun fact—sheep are very loud! It’s not quite a “baa” but more of consistent yelling.

• Internet is generally better than most folks say and my expectations. Most websites said WiFi wouldn’t allow streaming, uploads and downloads, but I had no issues.

• It is not that expensive and I found it to actually be cheaper than traveling in most major US cities—particularly when you take tipping into account.

• Be prepared to go with the flow—weather changes rapidly and cancellations are common. I had an Air New Zealand flight, a kayak trip and a ferry all get cancelled last minute.

• If you’re flying in the country Queenstown and Christchurch are quite small airports. If you’re connecting from a domestic flight to an international flight in Auckland, it is a ten minute walk outside from the domestic terminal to the international terminal at the Auckland airport following the green line on the sidewalk—or you can jump on the bus.

• I didn’t need cash anywhere in my 13 day trip, I used my credit card everywhere which was great to not have to worry about having too much or too little currency.

Check out my guide to New Zealand’s North Island here!

• South Island tips:

  • The ferry from the North Island arrives in Picton, the gateway to the South Island.

  • Some rental car companies require you to switch cars between islands so be sure to read the fine print and know what to expect. Budget/Avis does not require this.

  • There is generally less cell service on the South Island than the North, so be prepared.

  • North Island guide coming soon!

• Driving in New Zealand:

  • Many folks choose to rent a camper van and camp throughout the country, you can choose whatever style of travel you are most comfortable with. I went for a rental sedan and hotels.

  • If staying in hotels be sure to note check-in times ahead of arrival—many spots end check-in around 7 or 8pm.

  • There are many one way bridges throughout the country, especially on the South Island so be sure to read the signs and understand when to go and when to yield.

  • In New Zealand you legally must let folks pass if there are cars backing up behind you—pull left and allow them to pass. This is great on the frequent two lane roads where otherwise there would be delays.

Lake Marian Track

Christchurch Recommendations:

• It is a 4.5 hour drive down the coast to Christchurch from Picton. You’ll drive through two wine regions, Marlborough and Canterbury, so consider stopping at a scenic winery along the way.

  • My intent was to stop at Waipara Hills Winery which is 45 minutes north of Christchurch, but my initial ferry was cancelled so the timing unfortunately didn’t work out, but it looks like a great spot!

• Pomeroy’s Old Brewery Inn: A cute English-style pub, brewery and hotel. They have their own beers and a good selection of guest taps. Pomeroy’s has a full food menu and a beer garden out back. 

• I stayed at The Parque which is an apartment-style hotel near central city and the botanical gardens. 

• It is a four hour drive from Christchurch to Mount Cook with beautiful views along the way. Be sure to stop at Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki and soak in the sights. 

Mount Cook National Park

Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park Things to do:

• Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand and part of the Southern Alps. The top of Mount Cook has snow year round. There is also a Dark Sky Preserve at the park. 

• Sealy Tarns Track: This is a hard trail that is 4.5 miles long (not 3.2 as AllTrails says) with 1778ft of elevation gain via 2200 stairs. It is a difficult cardio burn but not *that* hard and worth it for the views. At the summit it overlooks Mueller Lake and Hooker Lake with beautiful views and takes about two hours and forty minutes to complete. This trail has a complex avalanche risk and also connects to the Mueller Hut Track at the top. There are several trailheads that share this parking lot so go early to snag a spot and beat the crowds. 

• Hooker Valley Track to Hooker Lake: This trail shares the same parking lot as Sealy Tarns and is a 6 mile long hike with 626ft of elevation gain and is rated as easy. It is a popular trail due to its accessibility and beautiful views. There are three suspension bridges along the way, a bathroom at the trailhead as well as about 2/3rds of the way through. Hooker Lake is a gorgeous glacier lake with icebergs looking at Mount Cook. It takes about two hours to complete. 

• Tasman Glacier View: This is a short .9 mile trail with 255ft of elevation gain straight up to Tasman Glacier. It is a 20 minute walk up stairs to the glacier lake and glacier itself. The views are beautiful of the shining bright blue lake. The trailhead is a ten minute drive from the main Mount Cook area parking.

• It is 2.5 hours from Mount Cook National Park to Wanaka. 

Noods on Lake Wanaka

Wanaka Recommendations:

• Wanaka is a cute little town on the lake that serves as the gateway to Mount Aspiring National Park. You can easily walk all of downtown and there is a nice long, rocky beachfront. 

• There are a ton of food trucks in Wanaka that are worth checking out. Noods is a great spot for ramen. 

• Black Peak Gelato: A delicious and award winning spot for gelato.

• I stayed at the Clearbrook Motel which was an average spot on the river. 

• Speights Ale House: A brewery and restaurant in downtown Wanaka across from the lake. They have a nice patio and solid beer and food. They have numerous locations across the country.

Rob Roy Glacier Track

Mount Aspiring National Park Things To Do:

• Mount Aspiring National Park is at the end of a sketchy road about one hour past Wanaka. An SUV or high clearance vehicle is recommender to traverse this road due to the river crossings on the road. Also be aware of livestock on this gravel road.

  • There are many “temporary waterfalls” coming out of the mountains on this road that are quite pretty, keep your eyes peeled!

• Rob Roy Glacier Track: An 8.3 mile trail with 1548ft of elevation gain (not 6.2 as AllTrails says). This is a quiet trail, probably due to the difficult road passing and avalanche risk, and it takes about 3.5 hours to complete. It starts off meandering through a pasture with many sheep then crossing a beautiful bright blue river before heading into the bush. It is a steady somewhat steep hike up to two lookouts—the lower lookout has an obstructed view and then it’s about 30 minutes further to the upper lookout with views of Mount Aspiring, waterfalls and the river. There is a complex avalanche risk between the lower and upper lookouts. There is a bathroom at the trailhead and near the upper lookout. There is no cell service in this area so be sure to be prepared. 

• The road the National Park is on is a dead end so you will turn around and drive back to Wanaka after your hiking/adventuring. From Wanaka it is a pretty 3 hour drive to Te Anau—particularly the Crown Range Summit Viewpoint about 45 minutes into the drive.  

Key Summit with Garage Project in hand

Milford Sound + Fiordland National Park Recommendations:

• Fiordland was my favorite National Park I visited and overall favorite day in New Zealand. The entire area is insanely gorgeous and honestly quiet—I expected hoards of tourists and traffic and did not experience that whatsoever. There is no cell phone service once you enter the park so be prepared. 

• Stay in Te Anau: 

  • Te Anau is the closest town to Fiordland and worth staying in to reduce the drive time. It is a bit of a touristy little town but there are still a few good spots and nice views everywhere. From Te Anau it is 2 hours to the end of the park at Milford Sound and about a 1 hour to drive to the first stops in the National Park.

  • La Toscana Pizzeria: A cute little Italian restaurant in the heart of town. Solid pizza.

  • Ditto: A popular spot for Asian street food that started off as a food truck. They have great reviews but unfortunately were closed for private functions both days I was in town. Check it out for me and let me know your thoughts!

  • Stay at Fiordland Lakeview Motel & Apartments: This is a nice spot to stay with lake views and low prices. They offer large apartment-style rooms with thoughtful touches. It is a 10 minute walk into central downtown.

• Lake Marian Track: This trail is rated as hard due to the steady steep climb over many rocks and roots. It is 5.2 miles (not 3.7 as AllTrails says) with 1350ft of elevation gain and takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes to complete. First you’ll cross a suspension bridge and then follow the river up through the bush until you reach the lake. The views at the lake are stunning and it is worth the effort of the hike, though going down the mountain is even more difficult if it is even remotely wet on the rocks and roots. This is a quiet trail (I saw 2 people total) and there is a bathroom at the trailhead and another near the lake. The trailhead is one hour and ten minutes from Te Anau. 

• Café and Tourist Information Building: This is right at Milford Sound and a great place to grab a coffee and a snack before or after exploring the Sound itself. The Sound parking lot is here as well, you’ll need to pay $25 for 5 hours of parking for your Sound exploration. 

• Milford Foreshore Track: A short .6 mile/10 minute walk along the water near the parking lot for Milford Sound. 

• Take a boat cruise on Milford Sound: There are several different companies to choose from—I went with Southern Discoveries for the timing and price point. The cruise is one hour and 45 minutes long and provides incredible views of the fiord. You’ll cruise alongside waterfalls and the glacier-formed mountains out to the Tasman Sea. Keep your eyes peeled for penguins and seals as well! This is definitely “touristy” but absolutely worth it for the insanely gorgeous views. There is complimentary coffee and tea available on board along with beer, wine and snacks for purchase, and a bathroom on board as well.

  • There are also kayak and helicopter tours offered of the Milford Sound.

• Key Summit & View of Lake Marian Trail: This is a gorgeous hike which is 5 miles long with 1374 feet of elevation gain. It takes about two hours to complete. The trail is a steady climb up through the bush until you pop out to gorgeous views with several switchbacks that lead to the summit. At the summit there is a compass and walking ten minutes further takes you to a view of Lake Marian. This trail has incredible views and was one of my favorites in all of New Zealand! There is a restroom at the trailhead and near the summit. Keep your eyes peeled for kea, these birds are populous in the area. This trailhead is a 30 minute drive from Milford Sound back towards Te Anau.

• The Chasm: A popular trail with waterfalls—unfortunately this was closed for construction during my visit but it looks fantastic. 

• Mirror Lakes: A quick 5 minute walk along a boardwalk. The water reflects the nearby mountains on clear, calm days. 

• From Mirror Lakes it is a 2.5 hour drive to Queenstown with beautiful lookouts along the way. 

Queenstown Hill Walkway

Queenstown Things To Do:

• Queenstown is the biggest city on the South Island but it is still pretty small overall. There are lots of trails and walkways throughout town which is nice and it is a popular ski town in the winter. Overall it is a touristy town but still worth a stop. The weather here changes very quickly due to it’s location on Lake Wakatipu with mountains all around so be sure to wear layers.

• Altitude Brewing: A great brewery across from the lake with delicious beers, fun vibes and frequent food trucks. Their Sours are what they are best know for but each style they make is good. The ski-themed taproom also has a nice patio space. 

• Explore downtown: Queenstown’s CBD is full of restaurants and shops to pop around to and is very pedestrian-friendly. It is a fun and popular area.

  • Reservations are recommended if you’d like to eat dinner in central downtown, everything gets quite busy. 

• Queenstown Hill Walkway: A steep hike up to gorgeous views overlooking Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu. The trail is 3.6 miles long with 1300ft of elevation gain and takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes to complete. It is straight up and then straight down. The first half is through the forest and then you’ll pop out onto the exposed mountaintop with views the rest of the way to the summit. Keep your eyes peeled for wild mountain goats! 

• Atlas Beer Café: A solid beer bar with 24 taps on the wharf. It is a cute and eclectic little place with some outdoor seating as well. They have a small food menu of snacks and tacos. 

• Queenstown Beach: A small beachfront on the lake downtown. Great views!

• Searchlight Brewery: A great brewery in an industrial neighborhood just outside of downtown. They have a nice outdoor patio, a small food menu, a cute brewery dog and tasty beers. Parking is limited in this area.

• Vudu Café: A delicious spot for breakfast and lunch overlooking the lake and mountains. They offer both sit down or take away options. This is a popular spot so be prepared to wait a bit for your food and drink. 

• Drive the scenic Glenorchy-Queenstown Road: A pretty route leading up to where the road ends in Glenorchy. There are several viewpoints and parks along the way. Wilson Bay and Bennetts Bluff are fantastic stops. The drive takes about 45 minutes each way with zero stops, so allot at least two hours. 

  • In the quiet town of Glenorchy there are a few little shops and water access. The Trading Post is a good option for coffee.

• Bardeaux: A cute and cozy little wine/whiskey/cocktail bar with a small food menu.

• Tanoshi: A Japanese restaurant with three locations in town—Ramen Ramen, NAME and 5 Mile Shopping Center near the airport. The gyoza from Tanoshi was delicious. The ramen at Ramen Ramen was average at best. 

• Moke Lake: A quiet mountain lake 20 minutes outside of town. It is a nice spot for a picnic and there are a few hiking/biking trails here as well. The road leading here is gravel for the last stretch with lots of cattle so drive carefully. 

• Whakatipu Brewing is also here but their hours are listed incorrectly on google so I was not able to check them out—let me know how it is if you go!

Check out my guide to New Zealand’s North Island here!

New Zealand's North Island

New Zealand tips:

• Don’t forget sunscreen! Even on a cloudy day sunburns are common.

• Download a free currency converter app and a kilometers to miles converter app before your arrival to make things easier.

• Download offline maps of the area you’ll be visiting ahead of your arrival so even if you don’t have cell service driving directions will still work.

• Not a tip but a fun fact—sheep are very loud! It’s not quite a “baa” but more of consistent yelling.

• Internet is generally better than most folks say and exceeded my expectations. Most travel websites said WiFi wouldn’t allow streaming, uploads and downloads, but I had no issues.

• It is not that expensive to visit New Zealand and I found it to actually to be cheaper than traveling in most major US cities—particularly when you take tipping into account.

• Be prepared to go with the flow—weather changes rapidly and cancellations are common. It will be hot and sunny one minute and cold, rainy and windy the next. I had an Air New Zealand flight, a kayak trip and a ferry all get cancelled.

• If you’re flying in the country Queenstown and Christchurch are quite small airports. If connecting from a domestic flight to an international flight in Auckland it is a ten minute walk outside from the domestic terminal to the international terminal at the Auckland airport following the green line on the sidewalk or you can jump on the bus. Customs is strict around hiking gear and food items to protect their native species—be sure to clean your hiking boots before leaving your home country.

• I didn’t need cash anywhere in my 13 day trip, I used my credit card everywhere which was great to not have to worry about having too much or too little currency.

Check out my South Island New Zealand guide here!

Driving in New Zealand:

• Many folks choose to rent a camper van and camp throughout the country, you can choose whatever style of travel you are most comfortable with. I went for a rental sedan and hotels.

• If staying in hotels be sure to note check-in times ahead of arrival—many spots end check-in around 7 or 8pm.

• There are many one way bridges throughout the country, especially on the South Island so be sure to read the signs and understand when to go and when to yield.

• In New Zealand you legally must let folks pass if there are cars backing up behind you—pull left and allow them to pass. This is great on the frequent two lane roads where otherwise there would be delays.

View of Auckland from the ferry

Auckland Recommendations:

Auckland is a very large and spread out city so be sure to plan ahead to ensure you’re not traversing back and forth across the city.

• Garage Project Kingsland: The Auckland taproom for Wellington-based Garage Project is absolutely stellar. Their beers are easily the best in the country. They are located in the Kingsland neighborhood and also have frequent food trucks.

• Climb up Mount Eden: The Maungawhau Summit Trail is 1.3 miles long with 223 feet of elevation gain. There are very nice views from the top of the skyline and surrounding water. If you only have time for Cornwall Park or Mount Eden do this trail for better views.

• One Tree Hill at Cornwall Park: This is a super pretty park with a trail up to One Tree Hill. It is a little over two miles long with 344 feet of elevation gain. The park is full of sheep and gorgeously lush.

• 16Tun: A great beer bar in the Wynward Quarter neighborhood near the wharf. This is a cool spot with a good selection of beers and outside food is welcome. 

• Urbanaut Brewing Company: A solid brewery in the Kingsland neighborhood. They have a wide selection of beers available and food as well.

• The Beer Spot: A fun beer bar with 40 taps and wine. They rotate food trucks each week, they are dog friendly and they have a nice patio space. They have 5 locations in the greater Auckland area, the Kingsland neighborhood spot is right across the street from Urbanaut. 

• Epic Beer: A warehouse brewery in South Auckland with solid beers. They only have four taps but they also have cans, bottles, wine, spirits and a small food menu. 

• Just Like Martha Cafe:  A cute, popular spot for coffee, breakfast and lunch. You can have a sit down meal inside or on their nice patio or grab take away pastries and coffee. 

• Best Ugly Bagels: A popular bagel spot with several locations around town. The menu is unique but delicious!

• Dr. Rudi’s Rooftop Brewing Company: A fancy-ish brewery near the waterfront. They have beer, wine and cocktails and a full food menu. They have great views of the bay and harbor from the rooftop.

• Auckland War Memorial Museum: A popular museum in the Auckland Domain Park featuring people, place, world and war. I found it to be average, but I did enjoy some sections more than others. Entry is $28 NZ for international visitors and free for New Zealand residents.

• Take the ferry to Rangitoto Island: You can purchase ferry tickets online ahead of time and soak in the views from the boat. The ride is 40 minutes each way with a stop at Devonport along the way. This is a completely desolate island that is the youngest volcano in the Auckland area.

  • The Rangitoto Island Summit trail is 4.3 miles long with 744 feet of elevation gain and takes about two hours to complete. There are fantastic views from the summit! You’ll hike across dried lava which reflects the sun back, so be prepared for it to be more hot and humid on the island than the mainland.

  • You can also check out the lava caves that are 15 minutes off the summit trail each way. They are pretty cool and a bit spooky.

  • You can also kayak to Rangitoto via Kayak Auckland. This was my original plan but my trip was cancelled due to expected storms.

• Pop around Ponsonby Street! This is popular area full of restaurants, bars and shops.

  • Brewport: A small brewery with a few house beers and guests taps. They have a nice beer garden style space with a small food menu of dogs and fries as well.

  • The Tinted Rose: A cute little bar that is a nice spot for a cocktail or glass of wine. They partner with a neighboring restaurant for a small food menu as well.

  • Hoppers Garden Bar: A nice majority outdoor beer garden/bar/restaurant.

  • Ponsonby Central: A mixed used space with food hall vibes and shops.

• Brothers Beer: An average brewery with several locations around town. Their City Works Depot taproom also has Juke Joint BBQ inside.

• The Rolling Pin: A yummy spot for dumplings, bao and boodle salad bowls. They have two locations in Auckland.  

• Williams Eatery: A nice spot for dine in or takeaway breakfast, lunch and coffee. Located in the Wynward Quarter.

• I stayed at the Travelodge and it was fine overall. It is in the Wynward Quarter neighborhood and walkable to many spots. The staff is not very helpful and provided incorrect information about parking, but overall the room was clean and well priced. 

• From Auckland it is a 2 hour and 45 minute drive to Mount Maunganui.

Mount Maunganui Track

Mount Maunganui Things To DO:

Mount Maunganui is a popular little beach town centered around an extinct volcano.

• Mount Maunganui Track: A 4.2 mile long trail with 830 feet of elevation gain that takes just over 1.5 hours to complete. This trail essentially combines each of the trail options at Mount Maunganui. It is a really pretty trail along the beach and even though it can be quite popular it is absolutely worth it for the views. Keep your eyes peeled for seals here too!

• There are a ton of restaurants in town for lunch after your hike or breakfast/coffee beforehand.

  • Tay Street Beach Cafe is a bit further out but a delicious spot for breakfast or lunch. It is right across the street from the beach and a lovely atmosphere.

• From Mount Maunganui it is a 1 hour drive to Rotorua.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

Rotorua Recommendations:

Rotorua is a town set on Lake Rotorua that is home to geothermal activity and Maori culture. All of Rotorua is a bit smelly due to the sulfur associated with geothermal activity.

• Waimangu Volcanic Valley: Home to volcanic craters, hot water springs, unique plants, and geothermal activity. There are walking trails and a boat cruise on Lake Rotomahana here. The full walk from the trailhead to the lake is 2.7 miles, but you can choose how far you’d like to walk thanks to free shuttles inside the area. The boat cruise is on an active volcanic crater formed from Mount Tarawera and takes about 45 minutes. It is definitely very touristy but extremely cool and I highly recommend. There is also a café onsite. Advance reservations are recommended.

• Hell’s Gate Geothermal Reserve: A geothermal walk and mud spa that is Māori owned. A touristy stop but it is very cool to see all of the geothermal activity. There are a few different looks for the walk, the longest being 1.25 miles. Advance recommendations are recommended and the afternoon is much quieter than the morning. Home to the largest hot waterfalls in the Southern hemisphere as well!

• The Fainting Goat: A cute spot downtown for lunch, dinner or drinks. They have a good selection of beers on tap and the food is tasty. Advance reservations are recommended but not required.

• Crater Lake: An extremely bright blue lake that is just a short ten minute walk from the parking lot for Rainbow Mountain and Crater Lake Outlook Track. I did not have enough time for Rainbow Mountain but it looks fantastic!

• The Beer Garden: Located inside Eat Street Food Market which is a cool outdoor area with restaurants. This is part of Good George Brewing and Craft Bar and Kitchen. The beer here is average.

• Okere Falls Track: A nice and easy 1.5 mile stroll with 250ft of elevation gain. If this happens to be on your route into Rotorua it is a few nice waterfalls, but don’t go out of your way for it. The trail takes about 30 minutes and there is also rafting and zip lining here.

• Okere Falls Store & Craft Beer Garden: A nice spot for a beer sitting out back. They have a great selection of cans and bottles to choose from, 14 taps and a food menu as well. It is a two minute drive from Okere Falls.

• Kuirau Park: A large park with mud pools, foot baths, green space and a playground.

• Lakefront Park: A nice park on Lake Rotorua for taking in the sights with a playground and benches.

• Blue and Green Lakes Lookout: There is a trail system here but the views overall are mediocre. Blue Lake has a nice beachy area with views.  

• Guidough’s Bakery: A solid stop for baked goods and coffee, two locations in town.

• I stayed at the Best Western and would not recommend it. It was only $99 and it was fine overall, but there was no shampoo/soap/etc., the plug situation was inconvenient, the check-in times were limited and it was a very dated property.

• Wai-O-Tapu: Another popular spot for geothermal activity in town but they have very limited hours.

• From Rotorua it is a 1 hour drive to Taupo.

TaupO Things To Do:

Taupo is a touristy town on the volcanic Lake Taupo that is popular for biking and lake activities.

• Stay at Edge Hill Hut Airbnb: This is one of my favorite places I’ve ever stayed around the world. The views here are absolutely incredible—Lake Taupō, Mount Kaweka, sheep, rainbows, you name it. It is private, serene and relaxing. There is an outdoor tub, fire chimney, bbq, heater, lights, comfy seating and more outside with games, a full bath, TV and kitchen inside. The entire space has thoughtful touches and it was truly magical.

• Huka Falls: An incredible waterfall with an obscene amount of bright blue water flowing through. It is a very popular spot since it is just a couple of minutes walk from the parking lot to the falls. The Loop Trail is quiet and just half of a mile. There is a great view of the falls from Arariatia. Huka Falls is just 5 minutes drive from downtown or a 6k walk/bike.

• Beehave Craft Meadery: One of the first meaderies in New Zealand! The mead here has lower ABV, is thinner and is less sweet than American meads. Everything was very tasty and it is a great stop in town. The owner is a former beekeeper who is very nice and be sure to say hello to the meadery dog as well.

• Two Mile Bay Sailing Club: A cute spot on the western side of the lake with pizza, breakfast, beer, wine and cocktails. The pizza is solid and the vibes are great.

• Jimmy Coop’s Lakehouse: Home to Lakeman Brewing with a large beer selection, full food menu and cocktails. They have an outdoor patio facing the lake as well.

• Craters of the Moon: If you did not visit Rotorua or do a geothermal walk this is another option very close to Huka Falls.

• From Taupo it is a 1 hour and 15 minute drive to Tangariro National Park around Lake Taupo with nice views.

Tama Lakes

Tangariro National Park Recommendations:

• Tama Lakes Track via Taranaki Falls Loop: This is supposed to be one of, if not THE, best trail on the North Island. I unfortunately had a bad weather day that prevented me from fully enjoying the hike or getting very many views. The trail is very exposed and I experienced rain, snow and 40+ mph winds, so be extra mindful of the forecast when planning to visit. It also includes a river crossing so depending on how much rainfall the area has had recently it might be shallow or in my case almost knee deep, so be sure to have waterproof shoes.

• This hike is on an active volcano out to two lakes, Lower Tama Lake and Upper Tama Lake, with Taranaki Falls here as well. Unfortunately I did not visit Upper Tama Lake due to the weather—the section up from the Lower Lake is quite slick and rocky on a normal day let alone in those conditions so it did not feel safe. From the trailhead to the lower lake and back via the falls was 8 miles with 1500 feet of elevation gain and took just shy of 3.5 hours.

• I only saw one other person on my hike, but again it was a poor weather day so I would recommend starting early as the parking lot is quite small. There are two portable restrooms—one near the falls and one 10 minutes before the lower lake.

• Tangariro Crossing is another popular trail here.

• From Tangariro National Park it is a 4.5 hour drive to Wellington. Sections of the drive are a little sketchy with mudslide risks so be prepared for potential rerouting and delays. There is not much along the route but Bulls is a city halfway that has coffee, gas and food.

Wellington Things To DO:

Wellington is the southernmost city on the North Island and the windiest city in the world! It reminds me a bit of San Francisco with hilly neighborhoods, coastal views, and overall a large but cute city.

• Parrotdog Brewery: A great brewery on the south side of the city near the airport. Their Hazy IPAs are superb! They have a large indoor space and a spacious patio.

• Mount Victoria Lookout: A great viewpoint with 360 degree views of the city, Wellington Harbor and the Cook Strait. You can hike via a large park or drive to this lookout.

• Mean Doses: A solid brewery that is takeaway only. They are working on opening a taproom, but they’re currently only able to offer their beers to-go. The Stout I got was delicious.

• HeyDay Beer Co: An average brewery with a small tap list and a few guest taps. They also have a small food menu but skip the cheese board. They have a front patio and are located on the popular Cuba Street.

• Garage Project: New Zealand’s best brewery has 3 locations in Wellington:

  • Cellar Door: This is their production space and home to cans and bottles to-go and a few taps

  • Aro Taproom: This is their main taproom in Wellington located in the Aro neighborhood just a few doors down from Cellar Door. It is an intimate spot with a small food menu.

  • Wild Workshop: This spot is in central Wellington and is home to their sour program. Hours here are limited.

• Noble Rot: A cute wine bar right off Cuba Street with a small food menu, extensive wine selection, cocktails, some beer.

• Explore Cuba Street: A long pedestrian road with cute shops, restaurants, bars, and more.

• Wander the wharf: A public space on the waterfront with a playground, marina, boat tours, and a handful of bars and restaurants.

• Te Papa: The Museum of New Zealand has free entry and focuses on nature, war, people’s impact on the land, people, native history and culture + art. It is a very nice and well-done museum.

• Old St Paul’s Church: A pretty, old church. Heads up the parking situation here is quite limited.

• Wellington is where the ferry to the South Island departs, and I highly recommend exploring the South Island. It is somehow even prettier than the North Island and a great place to adventure.

  • There are two companies who operate ferries—Interislander or Bluebridge. Be sure to book in advance. The ferries are huge and run daily at different times across the Cook Strait into the Queen Charlotte Sound to Picton. Sit up top to soak in the views along the way—they are absolutely stunning! Just be sure to wear layers as it does get incredibly windy. There is also the potential to see dolphins and whales.

  • The ferry ride itself takes 3.5 hours but check-in ends 1 hour prior to departure. If you have a car/van it is a lot of sitting and waiting. You can bring food and drink on board (no alcohol) and I would recommend this as the food selection is quite limited but they do have a good coffee, beer and wine offering.

Check out my Guide to New Zealand’s South Island here!

November and December 2022

November and December launched us further into Stout season and into a slue of delicious beers! I spent two weeks in New Zealand drinking a plethora of delicious Hazy IPAs, explored some new breweries and adopted a sweet little brew pup—Mosaic! In no particular order here were my top beers of November and December:

Check back next week for my top beers of the year!

I Heart NYC collaboration brew from Garage Project in Wellington, New Zealand and Other Half Brewing in New York, NY

This is a Hazy Pale Ale combining Other Half’s High Density Hop Charge with Garage Project’s Double Shot co-fermentation technique to create a ‘DSHDHC’ Hazy with Calypso, Citra, Simcoe and Strata hops. Best enjoyed on a trail summit with a killer view in Fiordland National Park.

Barrel Aged Pastrinauts (Four Roses) collaboration brew from Other Half Brewing in New York, NY, J. Wakefield Brewing in Miami, FL, Bottle Logic Brewing in Anaheim, CA, Horus Aged Ales in Oceanside, CA and Moksa Brewing in Rocklin, CA

Pastrinauts is an Imperial Stout with bananas, molasses, marshmallows and freeze dried ice cream. This version was aged in 15 year old Four Roses Barrels and clocks in at 14% ABV. This was insanely delicious and one of my favorite beers of the year.

Double Barrel Whale Rider from Weathered Souls Brewing in Charlotte, NC

Whale Rider is an Imperial Stout with toasted coconut, coconut and Madagascar vanilla beans. This version was double barrel aged in a Willet 8 year rye barrel and 15 year Woodford Reserve Masters barrel. Weathered Souls opened their Charlotte brewery in November and this was a fantastic beer to kick off their CLT beginnings.

Peter from Parrotdog Brewery in Wellington, New Zealand

Peter is an Imperial IPA. A lot of Hazys in New Zealand were delicious but Peter was a stand out!

Apple Brandy Barrel Aged Notable Ascent from Back Channel Brewing in Spring Park, MN

This is an Imperial Stout with Madagascar Vanilla aged in an Apple Brandy barrels. I am a sucker for apple brandy barrel aged beers and this was a perfect execution of flavors. I enjoyed this brew at Heist’s Night & Day 3 Festival. I need to get my hands on some more Back Channel beers!

Double Dry Hopped Ghost in the Machine from Parish Brewing in Broussard, LA

DDH Ghost is always delicious but this year’s batch was superb. DDH Ghost is a Double Dry Hopped Double IPA with all Citra hops. Juicy, smooth, flavorful and delightful.

Double Barrel Junie from Transient Artisan Ales in Bridgman, MI

This is an Imperial Rye Stout with Violet Sky cocoa nibs and salted caramel aged in Henry McKenna Bourbon barrels and Blis Maple Syrup barrels. Junie is a flavorful barrel forward brew from one of the best breweries in Michigan. I enjoyed this brew at Collect Beer Bar in Detroit!

Triple Eugene’s Axe from Fidens Brewing + Alex’s Axe collaboration brewing from Fidens Brewing in Colonie, NY and Troon Brewing in Hopewell, NJ

These were both phenomenal beers so I am cheating and doing a two-for-one here. Triple Eugene’s Axe is a Triple IPA with Citra and Galaxy hops. Alex’s Axe is a Hoppy Triple IPA with Nelson, Strata, Peacharine and Galaxy hops that is a collab with Troon. Generally I find Troon to be a bit overhyped, but this brew was incredible.

Bourbon Barrel Aged Bananaversary (2022 Edition) from Other Half Brewing in New York, NY

Bananaversary is an Imperial Pastry Stout with wild Thai bananas, coconut, toasted coconut, vanilla and macadamia nuts that is aged in bourbon barrels. I held onto this bottle for almost a full year before cracking it open and it was worth the wait. This has the perfect combination of adjuncts and barrel notes while being thiccc and lucious.

Check back next week to see my top beers of 2022! Cheers —Alexis