New Zealand's South Island

New Zealand tips:

  • Don’t forget sunscreen! Even on a cloudy day sunburns are common.

  • Download a free currency converter app and a kilometers to miles converter app before your arrival to make things easier.

  • Download offline maps of the area you’ll be visiting ahead of your arrival so even if you don’t have cell service driving directions will still work.

  • Not a tip but a fun fact—sheep are very loud! It’s not quite a “baa” but more of consistent yelling.

  • Internet is generally better than most folks say and my expectations. Most websites said WiFi wouldn’t allow streaming, uploads and downloads, but I had no issues.

  • It is not that expensive and I found it to actually be cheaper than traveling in most major US cities—particularly when you take tipping into account.

  • Be prepared to go with the flow—weather changes rapidly and cancellations are common. I had an Air New Zealand flight, a kayak trip and a ferry all get cancelled last minute.

  • If you’re flying in the country Queenstown and Christchurch are quite small airports. If you’re connecting from a domestic flight to an international flight in Auckland, it is a ten minute walk outside from the domestic terminal to the international terminal at the Auckland airport following the green line on the sidewalk—or you can jump on the bus.

  • I didn’t need cash anywhere in my 13 day trip, I used my credit card everywhere which was great to not have to worry about having too much or too little currency.

Check out my guide to New Zealand’s North Island here!

  • South Island tips:

    • The ferry from the North Island arrives in Picton, the gateway to the South Island.

    • Some rental car companies require you to switch cars between islands so be sure to read the fine print and know what to expect. Budget/Avis does not require this.

    • There is generally less cell service on the South Island than the North, so be prepared.

    • North Island guide coming soon!

  • Driving in New Zealand:

    • Many folks choose to rent a camper van and camp throughout the country, you can choose whatever style of travel you are most comfortable with. I went for a rental sedan and hotels.

    • If staying in hotels be sure to note check-in times ahead of arrival—many spots end check-in around 7 or 8pm.

    • There are many one way bridges throughout the country, especially on the South Island so be sure to read the signs and understand when to go and when to yield.

    • In New Zealand you legally must let folks pass if there are cars backing up behind you—pull left and allow them to pass. This is great on the frequent two lane roads where otherwise there would be delays.

Lake Marian Track

Christchurch

  • It is a 4.5 hour drive down the coast to Christchurch from Picton. You’ll drive through two wine regions, Marlborough and Canterbury, so consider stopping at a scenic winery along the way.

    • My intent was to stop at Waipara Hills Winery which is 45 minutes north of Christchurch, but my initial ferry was cancelled so the timing unfortunately didn’t work out, but it looks like a great spot!

  • Pomeroy’s Old Brewery Inn: A cute English-style pub, brewery and hotel. They have their own beers and a good selection of guest taps. Pomeroy’s has a full food menu and a beer garden out back. 

  • I stayed at The Parque which is an apartment-style hotel near central city and the botanical gardens. 

  • It is a four hour drive from Christchurch to Mount Cook with beautiful views along the way. Be sure to stop at Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki and soak in the sights. 

Mount Cook National Park

Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park

  • Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand and part of the Southern Alps. The top of Mount Cook has snow year round. There is also a Dark Sky Preserve at the park. 

  • Sealy Tarns Track: This is a hard trail that is 4.5 miles long (not 3.2 as AllTrails says) with 1778ft of elevation gain via 2200 stairs. It is a difficult cardio burn but not *that* hard and worth it for the views. At the summit it overlooks Mueller Lake and Hooker Lake with beautiful views and takes about two hours and forty minutes to complete. This trail has a complex avalanche risk and also connects to the Mueller Hut Track at the top. There are several trailheads that share this parking lot so go early to snag a spot and beat the crowds. 

  • Hooker Valley Track to Hooker Lake: This trail shares the same parking lot as Sealy Tarns and is a 6 mile long hike with 626ft of elevation gain and is rated as easy. It is a popular trail due to its accessibility and beautiful views. There are three suspension bridges along the way, a bathroom at the trailhead as well as about 2/3rds of the way through. Hooker Lake is a gorgeous glacier lake with icebergs looking at Mount Cook. It takes about two hours to complete. 

  • Tasman Glacier View: This is a short .9 mile trail with 255ft of elevation gain straight up to Tasman Glacier. It is a 20 minute walk up stairs to the glacier lake and glacier itself. The views are beautiful of the shining bright blue lake. The trailhead is a ten minute drive from the main Mount Cook area parking.

  • It is 2.5 hours from Mount Cook National Park to Wanaka. 

Noods on Lake Wanaka

Wanaka

  • Wanaka is a cute little town on the lake that serves as the gateway to Mount Aspiring National Park. You can easily walk all of downtown and there is a nice long, rocky beachfront. 

  • There are a ton of food trucks in Wanaka that are worth checking out. Noods is a great spot for ramen. 

  • Black Peak Gelato: A delicious and award winning spot for gelato.

  • I stayed at the Clearbrook Motel which was an average spot on the river. 

  • Speights Ale House: A brewery and restaurant in downtown Wanaka across from the lake. They have a nice patio and solid beer and food. They have numerous locations across the country.

Rob Roy Glacier Track

Mount Aspiring National Park

  • Mount Aspiring National Park is at the end of a sketchy road about one hour past Wanaka. An SUV or high clearance vehicle is recommender to traverse this road due to the river crossings on the road. Also be aware of livestock on this gravel road.

    • There are many “temporary waterfalls” coming out of the mountains on this road that are quite pretty, keep your eyes peeled!

  • Rob Roy Glacier Track: An 8.3 mile trail with 1548ft of elevation gain (not 6.2 as AllTrails says). This is a quiet trail, probably due to the difficult road passing and avalanche risk, and it takes about 3.5 hours to complete. It starts off meandering through a pasture with many sheep then crossing a beautiful bright blue river before heading into the bush. It is a steady somewhat steep hike up to two lookouts—the lower lookout has an obstructed view and then it’s about 30 minutes further to the upper lookout with views of Mount Aspiring, waterfalls and the river. There is a complex avalanche risk between the lower and upper lookouts. There is a bathroom at the trailhead and near the upper lookout. There is no cell service in this area so be sure to be prepared. 

  • The road the National Park is on is a dead end so you will turn around and drive back to Wanaka after your hiking/adventuring. From Wanaka it is a pretty 3 hour drive to Te Anau—particularly the Crown Range Summit Viewpoint about 45 minutes into the drive.  

Key Summit

Key Summit with Garage Project in hand

Milford Sound + Fiordland National Park

  • Fiordland was my favorite National Park I visited and overall favorite day in New Zealand. The entire area is insanely gorgeous and honestly quiet—I expected hoards of tourists and traffic and did not experience that whatsoever. There is no cell phone service once you enter the park so be prepared. 

  • Stay in Te Anau: 

    • Te Anau is the closest town to Fiordland and worth staying in to reduce the drive time. It is a bit of a touristy little town but there are still a few good spots and nice views everywhere. From Te Anau it is 2 hours to the end of the park at Milford Sound and about a 1 hour to drive to the first stops in the National Park.

    • La Toscana Pizzeria: A cute little Italian restaurant in the heart of town. Solid pizza.

    • Ditto: A popular spot for Asian street food that started off as a food truck. They have great reviews but unfortunately were closed for private functions both days I was in town. Check it out for me and let me know your thoughts!

    • Stay at Fiordland Lakeview Motel & Apartments: This is a nice spot to stay with lake views and low prices. They offer large apartment-style rooms with thoughtful touches. It is a 10 minute walk into central downtown.

  • Lake Marian Track: This trail is rated as hard due to the steady steep climb over many rocks and roots. It is 5.2 miles (not 3.7 as AllTrails says) with 1350ft of elevation gain and takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes to complete. First you’ll cross a suspension bridge and then follow the river up through the bush until you reach the lake. The views at the lake are stunning and it is worth the effort of the hike, though going down the mountain is even more difficult if it is even remotely wet on the rocks and roots. This is a quiet trail (I saw 2 people total) and there is a bathroom at the trailhead and another near the lake. The trailhead is one hour and ten minutes from Te Anau. 

  • Café and Tourist Information Building: This is right at Milford Sound and a great place to grab a coffee and a snack before or after exploring the Sound itself. The Sound parking lot is here as well, you’ll need to pay $25 for 5 hours of parking for your Sound exploration. 

  • Milford Foreshore Track: A short .6 mile/10 minute walk along the water near the parking lot for Milford Sound. 

  • Take a boat cruise on Milford Sound: There are several different companies to choose from—I went with Southern Discoveries for the timing and price point. The cruise is one hour and 45 minutes long and provides incredible views of the fiord. You’ll cruise alongside waterfalls and the glacier-formed mountains out to the Tasman Sea. Keep your eyes peeled for penguins and seals as well! This is definitely “touristy” but absolutely worth it for the insanely gorgeous views. There is complimentary coffee and tea available on board along with beer, wine and snacks for purchase, and a bathroom on board as well.

    • There are also kayak and helicopter tours offered of the Milford Sound.

  • Key Summit & View of Lake Marian Trail: This is a gorgeous hike which is 5 miles long with 1374 feet of elevation gain. It takes about two hours to complete. The trail is a steady climb up through the bush until you pop out to gorgeous views with several switchbacks that lead to the summit. At the summit there is a compass and walking ten minutes further takes you to a view of Lake Marian. This trail has incredible views and was one of my favorites in all of New Zealand! There is a restroom at the trailhead and near the summit. Keep your eyes peeled for kea, these birds are populous in the area. This trailhead is a 30 minute drive from Milford Sound back towards Te Anau.

  • The Chasm: A popular trail with waterfalls—unfortunately this was closed for construction during my visit but it looks fantastic. 

  • Mirror Lakes: A quick 5 minute walk along a boardwalk. The water reflects the nearby mountains on clear, calm days. 

  • From Mirror Lakes it is a 2.5 hour drive to Queenstown with beautiful lookouts along the way. 

Queenstown Hill Walkway

Queenstown Hill Walkway

Queenstown

  • Queenstown is the biggest city on the South Island but it is still pretty small overall. There are lots of trails and walkways throughout town which is nice and it is a popular ski town in the winter. Overall it is a touristy town but still worth a stop. The weather here changes very quickly due to it’s location on Lake Wakatipu with mountains all around so be sure to wear layers.

  • Altitude Brewing: A great brewery across from the lake with delicious beers, fun vibes and frequent food trucks. Their Sours are what they are best know for but each style they make is good. The ski-themed taproom also has a nice patio space. 

  • Explore downtown: Queenstown’s CBD is full of restaurants and shops to pop around to and is very pedestrian-friendly. It is a fun and popular area.

    • Reservations are recommended if you’d like to eat dinner in central downtown, everything gets quite busy. 

  • Queenstown Hill Walkway: A steep hike up to gorgeous views overlooking Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu. The trail is 3.6 miles long with 1300ft of elevation gain and takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes to complete. It is straight up and then straight down. The first half is through the forest and then you’ll pop out onto the exposed mountaintop with views the rest of the way to the summit. Keep your eyes peeled for wild mountain goats! 

  • Atlas Beer Café: A solid beer bar with 24 taps on the wharf. It is a cute and eclectic little place with some outdoor seating as well. They have a small food menu of snacks and tacos. 

  • Queenstown Beach: A small beachfront on the lake downtown. Great views!

  • Searchlight Brewery: A great brewery in an industrial neighborhood just outside of downtown. They have a nice outdoor patio, a small food menu, a cute brewery dog and tasty beers. Parking is limited in this area.

  • Vudu Café: A delicious spot for breakfast and lunch overlooking the lake and mountains. They offer both sit down or take away options. This is a popular spot so be prepared to wait a bit for your food and drink. 

  • Drive the scenic Glenorchy-Queenstown Road: A pretty route leading up to where the road ends in Glenorchy. There are several viewpoints and parks along the way. Wilson Bay and Bennetts Bluff are fantastic stops. The drive takes about 45 minutes each way with zero stops, so allot at least two hours. 

    • In the quiet town of Glenorchy there are a few little shops and water access. The Trading Post is a good option for coffee.

  • Bardeaux: A cute and cozy little wine/whiskey/cocktail bar with a small food menu.

  • Tanoshi: A Japanese restaurant with three locations in town—Ramen Ramen, NAME and 5 Mile Shopping Center near the airport. The gyoza from Tanoshi was delicious. The ramen at Ramen Ramen was average at best. 

  • Moke Lake: A quiet mountain lake 20 minutes outside of town. It is a nice spot for a picnic and there are a few hiking/biking trails here as well. The road leading here is gravel for the last stretch with lots of cattle so drive carefully. 

  • Whakatipu Brewing is also here but their hours are listed incorrectly on google so I was not able to check them out—let me know how it is if you go!

Check out my guide to New Zealand’s North Island here!