el chalten

Argentina

Argentina is a beautiful country with diverse landscape and fun places to explore!

Argentina Tips: 

  • Everything in Argentina is incredibly cheap. Taxis, restaurants, Airbnbs—you name it. The whole country is very budget-friendly.

  • Many businesses don’t have websites and you can’t fully trust their Google hours, social media is more reliable.

  • Check out my Brazil guide here!

Buenos Aires Recommendations:

Buenos Aires is a pretty cool massive cosmopolitan city! Walk around as much as possible—traffic can be annoying and Ubers are very cheap but sometimes difficult to book.

  • Strange Brewing: A great brewery with tasty beers and a good selection on their tap list. They also have a food menu and nice staff.

  • Recoleta Cemetery: A massive above ground cemetery that is very cool to explore.

  • Check out a Tango show: We went with La Ventana and really enjoyed our experience. The performers are wildly talented and the show was very entertaining. It is touristy but worth it! You can book with or without transport and with or without dinner.

  • Rebelion: A cute spot for dinner in the Palermo neighborhood. Tasty eats and cocktails and nice patio seating.

  • Coma, Veggie: A good spot in the Palermo neighborhood for empanadas and pizza.

  • Jardín Japonés: The Japanese Gardens are a bit disappointing and overcrowded, but the entrance fee was less than $1 so not too shabby.

  • Parque El Rosadel: A pretty rose garden that is a 10 minute walk from Jardín Japonés.

Laguna de Los Tres

Patagonia Recommendations:

El Chalten things to do—

If you visit one spot in Patagonia let it be El Chalten! This town is super cute and the hikes in Parque Nacional Los Glaciers are incredible! Everything is very walkable (even the trailheads you can walk to from town!) and the views are superb.

  • Laguna de Los Tres Trail: This trail is 15.2 miles long with 3,500ft of elevation gain and takes about 8 hours to complete. It is absolutely stunning all throughout the trail. Fitz Roy is truly magical to see in person. This is definitely the more popular trail in the area so start early to avoid the crowds. The last section is brutally steep, but it is absolutely worth it!

    • If you need hiking poles (would recommend for this trail in particular) there are plenty of gear shops in town you can rent them from for just a few bucks.

  • Laguna Torre Trail: This trail is 12 miles long with 1,644ft of elevation gain and takes just under 5 hours to complete. It is a great hike with beautiful views and not too difficult. The lake is gorgeous and you can see Fitz Roy from a different angle. Be sure to bring bug spray for this one!

  • Laborum: A delicious spot for pizza—12/10 recommend.

  • La Cervecería Chaltén: A brewery with a nice little beer garden outside and restaurant inside. They have homemade pasta that is delicious along with a few beers on tap and cocktails.

  • Fresco Bar: A cool little brewery in a greenhouse building with a small food menu.

  • La Vineria: A wine bar with a small beer menu, food, and a nice view.

  • Bandidos Patagónicos: A solid beer bar and pizza restaurant.

  • Patagonicus: An average spot for pizza and beer.

El Calafate things to do—

El Calafate is where you’ll need to fly into to visit El Chalten or El Calafate. It is home to a massive glacier and a cute little town.

  • Perito Moreno Glacier: This is the main attraction in this area and a must-visit! The glacier is massive and such a unique thing to explore. You can visit the glacier with a tour company but they’re all quite expensive and very long days. It is very easy to visit on your own either with a rental car or via bus.

    • Walkways Trail: The metal walkways take you down and around the glacier for various viewpoints. It is about 2.5 miles long with 300ft of elevation gain to do the entire walk in one direction, and takes about 1.5 hours. After paying the park entrance fee you will park then take a free shuttle to the walkways which runs every 10 minutes. You can either shuttle back to the parking area after seeing the glacier or take the trail back.

    • You can also do a boat tour to get closer to the glacier which is neat but a bit boring, and there is also kayak tours here.

  • Pura Vida: A stellar spot for dinner. Great vibes, friendly staff, delicious and fresh entrees, plus tasty cocktails.

  • La Trinchera: A fantastic spot for craft beer, wine and they also have a small food menu. This bar is super cute, their team is so nice, and their canned beer selection is superb.

  • Wanaco Tradicional Bar: A cool bar with patio seating. They have a full food menu and pitchers of cocktails.

  • Shelby: A cute little spot for gin tonics and a bottle shop. The upper balcony space is a nice spot to hang out.

  • La Oveja Negra: A craft brewery and distillery with a food menu and patio seating.

  • Olivia Coffee Shop: A solid spot for breakfast and coffee that opens earlier than most spots in town.

  • There are no Ubers here but you can reserve a taxi on WhatsApp from various companies online.

Ushuaia things to do—

Ushuaia is home to the end of the world! It is a decent sized city home to a busy port and lots of tourists heading to Antarctica. The surrounding views of the mountains are gorgeous from all around town. As a heads up, most businesses close in the afternoon and don’t reopen until 6 or 7pm which is pretty inconvenient for travelers and Google hours are not reliable.

  • Stay at Arakur Hotel: This hotel was an absolute dream. Everything is incredibly nice and the views are astounding. The outdoor infinity pool and hot tubs are magical.

  • Tierra del Fuego National Park: This park is home to the post office at the end of the world! Send someone a postcard and see how long it takes to arrive. The Coastal Path is a nice serene walk along the water with lots of mossy trees and pretty views. Getting to and from the park is a bit of a hassle, I would recommend scheduling a taxi ahead of time because the shuttle is unreliable and there is no phone service for Ubers. You can also take a tour.

  • Jeremy Button Gintoneria: A fun gin distillery with food, cocktails and beer. There are nice views and good vibes.

  • Martial Glacier Trail: This trail is 4.7 miles long with 1,667ft of elevation gain and takes just over 2 hours to complete. It is very steep—particularly the last third of the trail. It is a popular hike but not crowded by any means. There are great views of the city and of the Beagle Channel on the way up and down from the glacier. There is also a tea house and beer spot at the trailhead.

  • Salumeria Don Fidel: A great little wine spot with cheese, pizza and empanadas as well.

  • Laguna Encantada Trail: This trail is 5.6 miles long with 1,446ft of elevation gain and takes about 3 hours and 45 minutes to complete. It is a pretty, serene start and then becomes extremely steep. There are wild horses, views of the Vinciguerra glacier, and a pretty lake. This hike also shares about half of the trail with Vinciguerra Glacier Trail and Laguna de Los Témpanos which is more popular and a lot steeper and longer.

  • Isla Vegana: A cute spot for vegan eats.

  • Van Gogh Beer House: A bar that is open in the afternoon unlike most spots and has solid cocktails.

  • 1884: An average bar and restaurant with beers and burgers.

  • Skip Casa Olmo: It’s a cute spot but the service was wildly slow and the cocktails were not good.

Iguazu Falls

Iguazu Falls Recommendations:

Iguazu Falls are absolutely stunning and well worth exploring! They are shared by Argentina and Brazil, and I would recommend visiting both sides. The Argentina side is nicer to stay on and smaller town, though expect a lot of panhandling. Check out my recommendations for the Brazil side here.

Exploring the Argentina side of the falls:

  • Upper and Lower Circuits Trail: This is a combination of metal and paved pathways that takes about 1.5 hours to complete. It is a bit crowded at points but absolutely incredible to explore the largest waterfall system in the world.

  • The Devil’s Throat: Unfortunately the Argentina side of The Devil’s Throat was closed when we visited due to post-flood construction, but this is the most famed part of the falls. You take a train to a short trail to a viewpoint over The Devil’s Throat. You can also see it on the Brazil side!

  • Keep your eyes peeled for monkeys and coatis! Do not feed them.

  • Take a boat tour—there are options on both sides of the falls and you don’t book in advance for either. The Argentina side runs every 1 hour and 15 minutes.

  • The park is right outside of the airport so if you are flying in or out it is very convenient—they have luggage storage at the entrance that is first come, first serve. If I were to do it all again I would fly into the Argentina side one morning, taxi straight to the falls, stay in Puerto Iguazu for the night, taxi to the Brazil side of the falls in the morning where there is also luggage storage, and then fly out of the Brazil side airport that afternoon/evening.

Puerto Iguazu Recommendations:

  • Botánica: A beautiful garden space for dinner and drinks. Delicious eats and a serene setting.

  • La Republica del Taco: A great spot for Mexican with outdoor dining and happy hour.

  • Tacopado: A cool spot for Mexican eats with indoor and outdoor seating. The food and drinks are tasty and they offer happy hour. Don’t visit if you’re in a rush.  

  • Patagonia Brewing: A restaurant-style brewery with a small outpost across the street as well. Average beers.

  • There are no Ubers on the Argentina side of Iguazu Falls, so you’ll need to use Taxis to get around. It is easiest to just schedule pick-ups with a local driver—we rode with Claudio and he is the best! His WhatsApp number is: ‪+54 9 3757 45‑1543‬

Flora

Montevideo, Uruguay Recommendations:

Montevideo is just across the water from Buenos Aires. It can be reached via direct ferry or bus + ferry combination through Colonia del Sacramento. Boquebus and Colonia Express are the two transport companies to book with in advance.

Montevideo is a cosmopolitan city that is very walkable and quite small—we spent just over 24 hours exploring and that was perfect! Recommendations:

  • Cerveceria Malafama: Great beers, delicious pizza, and a cool space. Fantastic spot!

  • Enjoy the sidewalk café culture in the old city! There are tons of spots for outdoor dining and it’s a great part of town to bop around.

    • El Vermú de la Aduana was a favorite for delicious cocktails!

    • Ciudadelza is also a solid bar with a food menu and a few local beer taps

  • Flora: Highly recommend this spot for breakfast or lunch—it is delicious and super cute.

  • Indica Beer: A nice spot for beers right near Mercado del Puerto. Their selection was tasty and their team was super nice!

  • Oso Pardo: A solid brewery with a nice patio space, a food menu and good vibes.

  • Plaza Independencia: The famed plaza in the heart of the city, a quick must-see.

  • Mercado del Puerto: The city’s iconic market that is full of restaurants and shops. Expect it to be quite busy!

  • Museo del Carnaval: The city’s museum for Carnaval is full of costumes and documents the history of Carnval in Montevideo.

  • Walk La Rambla: This wide sidewalk follows the coastline and is a popular spot with locals. Unfortunately the water has a lot of silt so the beaches aren’t super pretty.