wellington

New Zealand's North Island

New Zealand tips:

  • Don’t forget sunscreen! Even on a cloudy day sunburns are common.

  • Download a free currency converter app and a kilometers to miles converter app before your arrival to make things easier.

  • Download offline maps of the area you’ll be visiting ahead of your arrival so even if you don’t have cell service driving directions will still work.

  • Not a tip but a fun fact—sheep are very loud! It’s not quite a “baa” but more of consistent yelling.

  • Internet is generally better than most folks say and exceeded my expectations. Most travel websites said WiFi wouldn’t allow streaming, uploads and downloads, but I had no issues.

  • It is not that expensive to visit New Zealand and I found it to actually to be cheaper than traveling in most major US cities—particularly when you take tipping into account.

  • Be prepared to go with the flow—weather changes rapidly and cancellations are common. It will be hot and sunny one minute and cold, rainy and windy the next. I had an Air New Zealand flight, a kayak trip and a ferry all get cancelled.

  • If you’re flying in the country Queenstown and Christchurch are quite small airports. If connecting from a domestic flight to an international flight in Auckland it is a ten minute walk outside from the domestic terminal to the international terminal at the Auckland airport following the green line on the sidewalk or you can jump on the bus. Customs is strict around hiking gear and food items to protect their native species—be sure to clean your hiking boots before leaving your home country.

  • I didn’t need cash anywhere in my 13 day trip, I used my credit card everywhere which was great to not have to worry about having too much or too little currency.

Check out my South Island New Zealand guide here!

Driving in New Zealand:

  • Many folks choose to rent a camper van and camp throughout the country, you can choose whatever style of travel you are most comfortable with. I went for a rental sedan and hotels.

  • If staying in hotels be sure to note check-in times ahead of arrival—many spots end check-in around 7 or 8pm.

  • There are many one way bridges throughout the country, especially on the South Island so be sure to read the signs and understand when to go and when to yield.

  • In New Zealand you legally must let folks pass if there are cars backing up behind you—pull left and allow them to pass. This is great on the frequent two lane roads where otherwise there would be delays.

View of Auckland from the ferry

Auckland

Auckland is a very large and spread out city so be sure to plan ahead to ensure you’re not traversing back and forth across the city.

  • Garage Project Kingsland: The Auckland taproom for Wellington-based Garage Project is absolutely stellar. Their beers are easily the best in the country. They are located in the Kingsland neighborhood and also have frequent food trucks.

  • Climb up Mount Eden: The Maungawhau Summit Trail is 1.3 miles long with 223 feet of elevation gain. There are very nice views from the top of the skyline and surrounding water. If you only have time for Cornwall Park or Mount Eden do this trail for better views.

  • One Tree Hill at Cornwall Park: This is a super pretty park with a trail up to One Tree Hill. It is a little over two miles long with 344 feet of elevation gain. The park is full of sheep and gorgeously lush.

  • 16Tun: A great beer bar in the Wynward Quarter neighborhood near the wharf. This is a cool spot with a good selection of beers and outside food is welcome. 

  • Urbanaut Brewing Company: A solid brewery in the Kingsland neighborhood. They have a wide selection of beers available and food as well.

  • The Beer Spot: A fun beer bar with 40 taps and wine. They rotate food trucks each week, they are dog friendly and they have a nice patio space. They have 5 locations in the greater Auckland area, the Kingsland neighborhood spot is right across the street from Urbanaut. 

  • Epic Beer: A warehouse brewery in South Auckland with solid beers. They only have four taps but they also have cans, bottles, wine, spirits and a small food menu. 

  • Just Like Martha Cafe:  A cute, popular spot for coffee, breakfast and lunch. You can have a sit down meal inside or on their nice patio or grab take away pastries and coffee. 

  • Best Ugly Bagels: A popular bagel spot with several locations around town. The menu is unique but delicious!

  • Dr. Rudi’s Rooftop Brewing Company: A fancy-ish brewery near the waterfront. They have beer, wine and cocktails and a full food menu. They have great views of the bay and harbor from the rooftop.

  • Auckland War Memorial Museum: A popular museum in the Auckland Domain Park featuring people, place, world and war. I found it to be average, but I did enjoy some sections more than others. Entry is $28 NZ for international visitors and free for New Zealand residents.

  • Take the ferry to Rangitoto Island: You can purchase ferry tickets online ahead of time and soak in the views from the boat. The ride is 40 minutes each way with a stop at Devonport along the way. This is a completely desolate island that is the youngest volcano in the Auckland area.

    • The Rangitoto Island Summit trail is 4.3 miles long with 744 feet of elevation gain and takes about two hours to complete. There are fantastic views from the summit! You’ll hike across dried lava which reflects the sun back, so be prepared for it to be more hot and humid on the island than the mainland.

    • You can also check out the lava caves that are 15 minutes off the summit trail each way. They are pretty cool and a bit spooky.

    • You can also kayak to Rangitoto via Kayak Auckland. This was my original plan but my trip was cancelled due to expected storms.

  • Pop around Ponsonby Street! This is popular area full of restaurants, bars and shops.

    • Brewport: A small brewery with a few house beers and guests taps. They have a nice beer garden style space with a small food menu of dogs and fries as well.

    • The Tinted Rose: A cute little bar that is a nice spot for a cocktail or glass of wine. They partner with a neighboring restaurant for a small food menu as well.

    • Hoppers Garden Bar: A nice majority outdoor beer garden/bar/restaurant.

    • Ponsonby Central: A mixed used space with food hall vibes and shops.

  • Brothers Beer: An average brewery with several locations around town. Their City Works Depot taproom also has Juke Joint BBQ inside.

  • The Rolling Pin: A yummy spot for dumplings, bao and boodle salad bowls. They have two locations in Auckland.  

  • Williams Eatery: A nice spot for dine in or takeaway breakfast, lunch and coffee. Located in the Wynward Quarter.

  • I stayed at the Travelodge and it was fine overall. It is in the Wynward Quarter neighborhood and walkable to many spots. The staff is not very helpful and provided incorrect information about parking, but overall the room was clean and well priced. 

  • From Auckland it is a 2 hour and 45 minute drive to Mount Maunganui.

Mount Maunganui Track

Mount Maunganui 

Mount Maunganui is a popular little beach town centered around an extinct volcano.

  • Mount Maunganui Track: A 4.2 mile long trail with 830 feet of elevation gain that takes just over 1.5 hours to complete. This trail essentially combines each of the trail options at Mount Maunganui. It is a really pretty trail along the beach and even though it can be quite popular it is absolutely worth it for the views. Keep your eyes peeled for seals here too!

  • There are a ton of restaurants in town for lunch after your hike or breakfast/coffee beforehand.

    • Tay Street Beach Cafe is a bit further out but a delicious spot for breakfast or lunch. It is right across the street from the beach and a lovely atmosphere.

  • From Mount Maunganui it is a 1 hour drive to Rotorua.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

Rotorua

Rotorua is a town set on Lake Rotorua that is home to geothermal activity and Maori culture. All of Rotorua is a bit smelly due to the sulfur associated with geothermal activity.

  • Waimangu Volcanic Valley: Home to volcanic craters, hot water springs, unique plants, and geothermal activity. There are walking trails and a boat cruise on Lake Rotomahana here. The full walk from the trailhead to the lake is 2.7 miles, but you can choose how far you’d like to walk thanks to free shuttles inside the area. The boat cruise is on an active volcanic crater formed from Mount Tarawera and takes about 45 minutes. It is definitely very touristy but extremely cool and I highly recommend. There is also a café onsite. Advance reservations are recommended.

  • Hell’s Gate Geothermal Reserve: A geothermal walk and mud spa that is Māori owned. A touristy stop but it is very cool to see all of the geothermal activity. There are a few different looks for the walk, the longest being 1.25 miles. Advance recommendations are recommended and the afternoon is much quieter than the morning. Home to the largest hot waterfalls in the Southern hemisphere as well!

  • The Fainting Goat: A cute spot downtown for lunch, dinner or drinks. They have a good selection of beers on tap and the food is tasty. Advance reservations are recommended but not required.

  • Crater Lake: An extremely bright blue lake that is just a short ten minute walk from the parking lot for Rainbow Mountain and Crater Lake Outlook Track. I did not have enough time for Rainbow Mountain but it looks fantastic!

  • The Beer Garden: Located inside Eat Street Food Market which is a cool outdoor area with restaurants. This is part of Good George Brewing and Craft Bar and Kitchen. The beer here is average.

  • Okere Falls Track: A nice and easy 1.5 mile stroll with 250ft of elevation gain. If this happens to be on your route into Rotorua it is a few nice waterfalls, but don’t go out of your way for it. The trail takes about 30 minutes and there is also rafting and zip lining here.

  • Okere Falls Store & Craft Beer Garden: A nice spot for a beer sitting out back. They have a great selection of cans and bottles to choose from, 14 taps and a food menu as well. It is a two minute drive from Okere Falls.

  • Kuirau Park: A large park with mud pools, foot baths, green space and a playground.

  • Lakefront Park: A nice park on Lake Rotorua for taking in the sights with a playground and benches.

  • Blue and Green Lakes Lookout: There is a trail system here but the views overall are mediocre. Blue Lake has a nice beachy area with views.  

  • Guidough’s Bakery: A solid stop for baked goods and coffee, two locations in town.

  • I stayed at the Best Western and would not recommend it. It was only $99 and it was fine overall, but there was no shampoo/soap/etc., the plug situation was inconvenient, the check-in times were limited and it was a very dated property.

  • Wai-O-Tapu: Another popular spot for geothermal activity in town but they have very limited hours.

  • From Rotorua it is a 1 hour drive to Taupo.

Taupo Airbnb

TaupO

Taupo is a touristy town on the volcanic Lake Taupo that is popular for biking and lake activities.

  • Stay at Edge Hill Hut Airbnb: This is one of my favorite places I’ve ever stayed around the world. The views here are absolutely incredible—Lake Taupō, Mount Kaweka, sheep, rainbows, you name it. It is private, serene and relaxing. There is an outdoor tub, fire chimney, bbq, heater, lights, comfy seating and more outside with games, a full bath, TV and kitchen inside. The entire space has thoughtful touches and it was truly magical.

  • Huka Falls: An incredible waterfall with an obscene amount of bright blue water flowing through. It is a very popular spot since it is just a couple of minutes walk from the parking lot to the falls. The Loop Trail is quiet and just half of a mile. There is a great view of the falls from Arariatia. Huka Falls is just 5 minutes drive from downtown or a 6k walk/bike.

  • Beehave Craft Meadery: One of the first meaderies in New Zealand! The mead here has lower ABV, is thinner and is less sweet than American meads. Everything was very tasty and it is a great stop in town. The owner is a former beekeeper who is very nice and be sure to say hello to the meadery dog as well.

  • Two Mile Bay Sailing Club: A cute spot on the western side of the lake with pizza, breakfast, beer, wine and cocktails. The pizza is solid and the vibes are great.

  • Jimmy Coop’s Lakehouse: Home to Lakeman Brewing with a large beer selection, full food menu and cocktails. They have an outdoor patio facing the lake as well.

  • Craters of the Moon: If you did not visit Rotorua or do a geothermal walk this is another option very close to Huka Falls.

  • From Taupo it is a 1 hour and 15 minute drive to Tangariro National Park around Lake Taupo with nice views.

Tama Lakes

Tangariro National Park

  • Tama Lakes Track via Taranaki Falls Loop: This is supposed to be one of, if not THE, best trail on the North Island. I unfortunately had a bad weather day that prevented me from fully enjoying the hike or getting very many views. The trail is very exposed and I experienced rain, snow and 40+ mph winds, so be extra mindful of the forecast when planning to visit. It also includes a river crossing so depending on how much rainfall the area has had recently it might be shallow or in my case almost knee deep, so be sure to have waterproof shoes.

  • This hike is on an active volcano out to two lakes, Lower Tama Lake and Upper Tama Lake, with Taranaki Falls here as well. Unfortunately I did not visit Upper Tama Lake due to the weather—the section up from the Lower Lake is quite slick and rocky on a normal day let alone in those conditions so it did not feel safe. From the trailhead to the lower lake and back via the falls was 8 miles with 1500 feet of elevation gain and took just shy of 3.5 hours.

  • I only saw one other person on my hike, but again it was a poor weather day so I would recommend starting early as the parking lot is quite small. There are two portable restrooms—one near the falls and one 10 minutes before the lower lake.

  • Tangariro Crossing is another popular trail here.

  • From Tangariro National Park it is a 4.5 hour drive to Wellington. Sections of the drive are a little sketchy with mudslide risks so be prepared for potential rerouting and delays. There is not much along the route but Bulls is a city halfway that has coffee, gas and food.

Garage Project Auckland

Wellington 

Wellington is the southernmost city on the North Island and the windiest city in the world! It reminds me a bit of San Francisco with hilly neighborhoods, coastal views, and overall a large but cute city.

  • Parrotdog Brewery: A great brewery on the south side of the city near the airport. Their Hazy IPAs are superb! They have a large indoor space and a spacious patio.

  • Mount Victoria Lookout: A great viewpoint with 360 degree views of the city, Wellington Harbor and the Cook Strait. You can hike via a large park or drive to this lookout.

  • Mean Doses: A solid brewery that is takeaway only. They are working on opening a taproom, but they’re currently only able to offer their beers to-go. The Stout I got was delicious.

  • HeyDay Beer Co: An average brewery with a small tap list and a few guest taps. They also have a small food menu but skip the cheese board. They have a front patio and are located on the popular Cuba Street.

  • Garage Project: New Zealand’s best brewery has 3 locations in Wellington:

    • Cellar Door: This is their production space and home to cans and bottles to-go and a few taps

    • Aro Taproom: This is their main taproom in Wellington located in the Aro neighborhood just a few doors down from Cellar Door. It is an intimate spot with a small food menu.

    • Wild Workshop: This spot is in central Wellington and is home to their sour program. Hours here are limited.

  • Noble Rot: A cute wine bar right off Cuba Street with a small food menu, extensive wine selection, cocktails, some beer.

  • Explore Cuba Street: A long pedestrian road with cute shops, restaurants, bars, and more.

  • Wander the wharf: A public space on the waterfront with a playground, marina, boat tours, and a handful of bars and restaurants.

  • Te Papa: The Museum of New Zealand has free entry and focuses on nature, war, people’s impact on the land, people, native history and culture + art. It is a very nice and well-done museum.

  • Old St Paul’s Church: A pretty, old church. Heads up the parking situation here is quite limited.

  • Wellington is where the ferry to the South Island departs, and I highly recommend exploring the South Island. It is somehow even prettier than the North Island and a great place to adventure.

    • There are two companies who operate ferries—Interislander or Bluebridge. Be sure to book in advance. The ferries are huge and run daily at different times across the Cook Strait into the Queen Charlotte Sound to Picton. Sit up top to soak in the views along the way—they are absolutely stunning! Just be sure to wear layers as it does get incredibly windy. There is also the potential to see dolphins and whales.

    • The ferry ride itself takes 3.5 hours but check-in ends 1 hour prior to departure. If you have a car/van it is a lot of sitting and waiting. You can bring food and drink on board (no alcohol) and I would recommend this as the food selection is quite limited but they do have a good coffee, beer and wine offering.

Check out my Guide to New Zealand’s South Island here!

The Best Cities for Beer Vacations

I have explored the beer scene in a lot of cities both domestically and abroad, and it’s time to share the absolute best places for a craft beer vacation.

To make the list you have to have a high quantity of breweries, but also some fantastic breweries. There are a lot of cities with a ton of breweries that make average to mediocre beer. These cities all have folks absolutely crushing the game.

In no particular order, here are the best cities in the United States and abroad for beer vacations:

The Best US Cities for Beer Vacations:

Richmond, Virginia

Richmond has a ton of breweries and some that are truly fantastic. Scott’s Addition itself is jam packed with breweries but the rest of RVA has some great beers to offer as well. Highlights here include Triple Crossing, The Veil, The Answer and Tabol for breweries and Mekong for a great beer bar. Check out my Richmond beer and travel guide here.

Asheville, North Carolina

Asheville has long been deemed one of the best beer cities in the country, so it is no surprise that I would agree. This picturesque city is home to some huge breweries like Sierra Nevada, Highland, and New Belgium, but also more localized spots like Burial, Dssolvr, Zillicoah, and New Origin. Don’t miss The Whale for a great beer bar! Check out my Asheville beer and travel guide here.

Denver, Colorado

Of course Denver is on the list. With superb breweries like Cerebral, Bierstadt, Our Mutual Friend, and TRVE it’s hard to beat the brew scene here. Pair that with everything else the city has to offer and the surrounding scenery and you’re absolutely in for a good time. Check out my Colorado beer and travel guide here.

Grand Rapids, Michigan

As a Michigander this addition should be no surprise, but it’s not just me and my home state biases—Grand Rapids is constantly in the running for any “beer city” competition. Don’t miss Speciation Artisan Ales, Arvon, and City Built for breweries and for Seven Monks for a beer bar. The city is exploding with breweries to explore. Check out my Grand Rapids beer and travel guide here.

New York City, New York

I’m sure most “normal people” wouldn’t think of New York as a hub for craft beer, but the city that never sleeps is indeed a great spot for craft beer lovers. The beer bar scene here tends to shine brightest with spots like Torst, Beer Street, and Proletariat, while breweries such as Other Half, Fifth Hammer, and Evil Twin absolutely crush it. Check out my NYC beer and travel guide here.

Chicago, Illinois

Chicago has a wide array of breweries throughout their many neighborhoods and suburbs. Heavy hitters include Maplewood, More, Mikerphone and Revolution, plus don’t miss Phase Three in the northern suburb of Lake Zurich. Check out my Chicago beer and travel guide here.

The Twin Cities, Minnesota

The Twin Cities are exploding with breweries! Highlights include BlackStack, Barrel Theory, Fair State, Modist, and Falling Knife. The beer scene here tends to be somewhat IPA heavy, but the beers are superb and there are plenty of spots to explore. Check out my Minneapolis and St. Paul beer and travel guide here.

Portland, Maine

We all know New England is chock full of great breweries and particularly Hazy IPAs, but Portland’s beer scene is unmatched. With OG spots like Allagash, Maine Beer Company, and Oxbow alongside newer (and hazier) breweries like Mast Landing, Belleflower, and Bissell Brothers, you can find an absolutely superb beer of any style. Don’t miss the killer beer bar Novare Res Bier Cafe as well! Check out my Portland beer and travel guide here.

Los Angeles, California

LA might not seem like a great beer city at first glance but this sprawling metro is home to some of the country’s best breweries. LA’s southern neighbor San Diego gets all of the praise for craft beer, but LA’s scene is far superior. Monkish, Bottle Logic, Green Cheek, Homage, and Highland Park all call LA home, along with a ton of other great spots. Windsor Home Brew is a fantastic beer bar and bottle shop that is not to be missed either. Check out my LA beer and travel guide here.

Portland, Oregon

Portland’s beer scene has been exploding for decades. The city is overflowing with breweries and it seems a new one opens almost weekly at this point. There are some solid spots in PDX, and topping the list are Great Notion, Cascade, Ruse, and Wayfinder. Check out my Portland beer and travel guide here.

Charlotte, NC

I wouldn’t live in Charlotte if I didn’t think the beer scene here was superb! There are a ton of breweries in the city, but Resident Culture, Burial, HopFly, and Fonta Flora top the list. CLT is also home to some fantastic beer bars—Salud and Pop The Top should not be missed. Check out my Charlotte guide here.

Tampa, Florida

Tampa absolutely crushes the dark beer game. There are a lot of breweries that make great other styles of beer, but if your a Stout person Tampa is for you! Brewery highlights include Angry Chair, BarrieHaus, Woven Water, and Magnanimous. Check out my Tampa beer and travel guide here. Neighboring St. Pete is also full of great spots!

Notable Mentions:

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania—Check out my Philly beer and travel guide here! I am excited to be back in May 2024!

Burlington, Vermont—This is the one beer city that I believe will be stupendous that I have not yet visited, but I do think it is probably one of the best cities for a beer vacation. My plans to visit have been foiled numerous times now, but I will finally be there in June 2024!

The Best Cities Abroad for Beer Vacations:

Melbourne, Australia

Melbourne is a gorgeous city with a booming beer scene, especially for Oceania. Stomping Ground, Fixation, Mood Dog, and Mountain Goat are the best of the best here, but there are a ton of spots to visit. Check out my Melbourne beer and travel guide here.

Munich, Germany

Is it possible to think of “beer cities” and not think of Germany? Munich is home to some classic gems like Augustiner Keller, Lowenbrau, Hofbrauhaus, and Paulaner. Pair a cold mug from any of their breweries with a pretzel or sausage and it’s impossible to have a bad time. Check out my Munich beer and travel guide here.

Brussels, Belgium

Another classic beer city! Personally I think the not-so-classic Belgian beers here outperform the dubbels and tripels. Cantillon is obviously the top choice here, but Moeder Lambic and Delirium should not be missed either! Check out my Belgium beer and travel guide here.

Wellington, New Zealand

My beer expectations for New Zealand were low, but the country as a whole is making some killer beers. Wellington in particular has a stand out beer scene. It is home to Garage Project, the country’s best brewery hands down, but Parrotdog is also a must-visit. Check out my North Island beer and travel guide here.

What are your favorite cities in the world for beer travel? Let me know in the comments! Cheers—Alexis